The last few days has been wet, cold and miserable – but with some keen planning manage to catch a small weather window. It turned out to be a lovely evening climb on Svolværgeita.
Good effort Jackie and Paul 💪
A litte brief history about the climbing on Svolværgeita:
Since that first ascent, Svolværgeita has become emblematic of Norwegian alpine adventure—a rite of passage that melds historical significance, technical challenge, and dramatic scenery. It remains a must-do climb for anyone in Lofoten.
Svolværgeita was first conquered on 1 August 1910 by Norwegian climbers Ferdinand Schjelderup, Alf Bonnevie Bryn, and Carl Wilhelm Rubenson. They ascended via what is now known as the 1910 Route, navigating a steep diagonal traverse across the north wall before reaching the summit.
A legendary leap between the horns
The pinnacle’s summit, formed by two rock blocks—the Storhorn and Lillehorn—prompted a daring tradition: jumping across the roughly 1.5-meter gap between them. Perched atop one horn, climbers must leap to the other with a drop of about a meter and a cemetery 300 meters below—a surreal and adrenaline-charged finale. First jump was made by Arne Randers Heen in 1932. A rock fall around 2010 has now made the jump even more difficult and has since gone out of fashion.
