Stetind - The South Pillar

Climb Norway’s National Mountain via its Most Iconic Alpine Line

Rising dramatically from the fjord with its unmistakable obelisk shape, Stetind (1,392 m) is more than just a peak—it’s a symbol of Norway’s wild and majestic nature. Located in Tysfjord, just south of Narvik, Stetind was named Norway’s National Mountain in a nationwide poll in 2002, and for good reason: it’s a breathtaking sight from every angle. But for climbers, the true magic lies in scaling its legendary South Pillar—a classic alpine rock climb that combines history, beauty, and exposure in one unforgettable ascent.

The South Pillar (Sydpillaren) is a 700-meter granite ridge that offers over a dozen pitches of superb climbing on solid rock, ranging up to grade 6- (Norwegian). The route is a beautiful journey up clean slabs, steep cracks, and airy ridges, with the fjord glimmering below and the endless mountain landscape stretching in all directions. It’s a long, physical day out, demanding both stamina and solid multi-pitch climbing skills—but for those who rise to the challenge, the reward is immense.

A bit of History:

Stetind’s vertical drama has captured imaginations for over a century. The mountain was first climbed in 1910 by Ferdinand Schjelderup, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, and Alf Bonnevie Bryn—an ascent that marked a milestone in Norwegian mountaineering. But the South Pillar itself wasn’t climbed until 1936, when the legendary Norwegian climber Arne Næss, along with his team, completed what is now one of Norway’s most celebrated alpine routes.

Climbing the South Pillar today is not just about movement on rock—it’s about stepping into a rich climbing heritage. You’ll follow in the footsteps of some of Norway’s greatest alpinists, feeling the same exposure and exhilaration as they did nearly a century ago.

A Guided Classic

This is not just a climb—it’s a full alpine experience. Our IFMGA-certified guides will lead you safely and efficiently up the route, providing route-finding expertise, rope management, and local knowledge to ensure you get the most out of your day on the mountain. The climb typically takes 10–14 hours round trip, starting from the parking area at the foot of the mountain and ascending nearly 1,000 meters to the summit block, where the final meters deliver breathtaking 360-degree views over fjords, peaks, and the wilds of Arctic Norway.

Why Climb Stetind with Lofoten Mountain Guides?

• Expert IFMGA-certified guides with deep local knowledge

• Focus on safety, efficiency, and a high-quality experience

• A chance to climb one of Norway’s most storied routes in a spectacular setting

• A true alpine adventure you’ll never forget